Austria in Winter for the Non-Skier
Visiting Austria in winter both up hill and down dale offers much for the non-skier! I may want to experience all that the world has to offer, but as an accident prone girl who can tear her Achilles just by tripping up on uneven ground, I have an even more remarkable sense of self-preservation, so downhill skiing is a no-no! Mind you so is cross country skiing after my disastrous attempt at this back in 2011. I fractured my coccyx and spent the following 6 months perched on a cushion with a well positioned hole in it. Still at the forefront of my memory is the incredibly uncomfortable plane journey back to England, so any snow sports are definitely off the agenda.
My regular trips to Austria started once my Uncle and Aunt moved to live in Zell am See in 2008 and this is where I base myself for these trips. I always fly to Munich however as there is a direct flight from Manchester all year round and I prefer to do the 3 hour drive in Germany and Austria than from Manchester to Stanstead to fly to Salzburg. In the winter the driving route from Munich to Zell am See is truly magical and unlike driving in snowy England, it’s a pleasurable experience. The headlights unearth an ethereal winter wonderland.
Part 1 – At Mountain Level near Zell am See
I fully intend to write about what to see and do at valley level, but this post is all about what to do up on the mountains if you don’t ski. You may not think it, but there’s plenty to see!
The Schmittenhöhe Mountain
Zell am See is a beautiful place to stay in Austria in winter. It is perfectly central for exploring Salzburger land, the Austrian Tyrol and Alps. Situated on Lake Zell, it is a popular ski resort, with the Schmittenhöhe mountain overlooking the town of Zell am See. Numerous cable cars and ski lifts take skiers and non-skiers up to the top and various stages en route. As a non-skier the best cable car to the top in one ride is the Schmittenhöhebahn. I visited in May when the mountain is largely free of snow. Take in a glass of Glühwein at 2,000m (1,965m to be exact) to accompany some apple strudel and take a wander to the Elisabeth Chapel. Here you’ll be able to see the along the mountain range beyond and the myriad of cross country ski routes.
The Elisabeth Chapel was built in the early 1900’s as a memorial chapel to Empress Elisabeth. She visited Zell am See in 1885 and as an avid mountaineer hiked up to the summit of the Schmittenhöhe to view the glorious sunrise. It became part of the hotel portfolio on the Schmitten until it was sold to the Agricultural Association and Zell Forest Association in 1984.
Take in some of the art on the mountain while you’re up the Schmittenhöhe. There are over 30 large sculptures placed at strategic points on the ski and hiking trails so many are available to be viewed without the aid of skis in winter.
There are also unrivalled views across to the Kitzsteinhorn Mountain and Glacier. This is another hugely popular ski resort above the neighbouring resort of Kaprun and just a 20 minute drive away. There’s a variety of ticket prices depending on what you want to do.
The Kitzsteinhorn Mountain
The Kitzsteinhorn is a spectacular mountain and THE number 1 itinerary must for this area of Austria. It is a major highlight of the Alps in general and has loads to offer non-skiers in Austria in winter. Three very different cable cars take non-skiers to the top which sits at 3029 metres. You’ll fly you across the highest lift support pylon in the world which definitely brings a lump to the throat.
At each stage there are shops and restaurants for Après Ski, not to mention the unavoidable and slightly unnerving icy routes across the start and end of ski runs. It’s a case of find a gap, dodge the skier and get a move on. It’s a sure fire way to get the heart pumping! Make sure to wear study footwear, preferably walking boots or something with decent grips. The views are amazing and at the top station you feel like you’re on top of the world! This is without a doubt one of the best views to see in Austria in winter.
The frozen Lake Zell is a tiny indent amongst range after range of snow clad mountains. You have to admit it’s a tremendous view! Take advantage of the camera at the top viewing platform to get a photo of your whole group. Note down the website link and time of photograph, then you can access your photos online. They will be available to download free from later on that day. It’s nice to see this is a free service and not charged in addition to the attraction fee. I wish the same could be said for other similar services I’ve seen across the world. The top of the Rockerfeller centre in New York and the Montparnasse Tower in Paris: I’m looking at you!
Things to Do at the Top of the Kitzsteinhorn
You’ll find Austria’s highest cinema screen at the top of the Kitzsteinhorn. It shows a 12 minute film of the mountain with breathtaking images of the wider Hohe Tauern National Park.
The most recent attraction is an atmospherically lit walk ‘through the mountain’. Exhibits along the way provide insight into the world of the Hohe Tauern National Park. You’ll also learn all about the formation of the Kitzsteinhorn glacier.
At the end of the walk, you’ll be rewarded with more stupendous views. This viewing platform however juts out over the snow with a see through floor. Eeeeeek…. it is not for the faint-hearted!
Remember… Walking at this elevation causes shortness of breath, so take it easy particularly on the return as it’s uphill. Take regular rests if needed at one of the many museum exhibits en route. You’ll be pleased to know they all come with seats!
The restaurant at the top of the Kitzsteinhorn is excellent, with a varied menu and an impressive view. You will find lots of skiers and non-skiers making use of this place! I can highly recommend the Wiener Schnitzel and Apple Strudel with Vanilla sauce.
The Kitzsteinhorn is easily my favourite place to visit in Austria in winter. Those views from the top are just sublime! However, the experience does come with a hefty price tag! To ascend the Kitzsteinhorn, an adult cable car ticket will set you back EUR 42.00. In my opinion it’s well worth the cost though and if taken at a leisurely pace forms a full day out.
Have you visited Zell am See before? If so, did you go up the Schmittenhohe or Kitzsteinhorn mountains? Let me know in the comments below – i’d love to hear from you!
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Nenad | 25th Oct 16
Wow, that looks incredible! We are big on snowboarding and at the top of our list is a trip to the Alps in Winter! I like how you focused on the non-skier, great tips and advice.
Tilly Horseman | 2nd Nov 16
Ace! I wish I wasn’t so accident prone and could try out such sports, however I’m best sticking to my own two feet, nothing attached to them!
This area of the Austrian Alps are superb and have many different ski resorts in close proximity so you can visit many from the same base if you wish. Plus there’s plenty of other things to do off the slopes. Look out for my next post on what to do at valley level for the non-skier in this area. I plan to post it some time over the next month.