Sculpture trail season has started in earnest in the TJG household as I headed to north west Norfolk to follow the Explore-a-Book book bench trail in King’s Lynn and Hunstanton. I am so excited for this year as there are some amazing sculpture trails planned in, as well as all the postponed trails from last year too.
However- it all kicks off in Norfolk, which was a bit of a trek for me from Cheshire as a day trip, but easily the best 16 hours I’d spent all year so far!
There are 10 book benches on the Explore-a-Book sculpture trail; 7 of them in King’s Lynn, 2 in Hunstanton and one last one in Downham Market. I did not manage to get to the last one as I literally ran out of day. It is however easily achievable to see them all in a single day (assuming you have access to a car); it’s just that I like exploring beyond the sculptures, so I move around leisurely, have a really good mooch around the area and take lots of photos of course.
Table of Contents
Well, it’s exactly like it sounds – a bench which takes the form of an open book… and they are surprisingly comfortable to sit on.
I discovered them for the first time 4 years ago in Basingstoke when I followed the Sitting With Jane trail through Hampshire. I’ve since seen them all over the place, quite often as additions to other sculpture trails. They seem to be so popular and I can guarantee that if there are other benches in the vicinity, it’ll be the book benches that people sit on first. I’ve lost count of the number of people I’ve politely asked to vacate the seat while I took a quick photo of the design.
I love following sculpture trails like this as they get me out exploring places I wouldn’t necessarily have visited. Then within those places – finding little gems that I would often never have found without the trail.
The locations in King’s Lynn have been chosen to reflect the theme of stories: the telling of a story and the people and places that arise from them. The ‘Stories of Lynn’ museum have produced a trail map along with excellent information about the locations and historical buildings you’ll see along the route.
Having printed off the trail map, I decided to park in Boal Quay car park so I wasn’t far from the first book bench at the Saturday Market Place.
I didn’t make it to the first bench though before getting totally distracted by the stunningly beautiful St Margaret’s Church, otherwise known as King’s Lynn Minster.
This church is huge for the size of the town and is far bigger than any other Norfolk church at 235ft long. It is almost cathedral-like in its size, position and architectural prowess.
The church was originally founded as a Benedictine Priory in 1101 and has gathered a long and varied history as a parish church ever since. It became King’s Lynn Minster in 2011 in recognition that the ministry it provides is far wider than that of a normal parish church.
I of course had a gander inside on passing, but I won’t go into full architecture geek-out mode here, I’ll save that for another post. Safe to say – it’s worth popping your head in!
Keep an eye out for the Tide Clock, high up to the right on the western front of the Minster, as well as the flood level markers mounted on the stone to the right-hand side of the main entrance door.
The double line of headstones along the southern boundary of the churchyard intrigued me too. The line of houses behind them on Priory Lane look rather old and I’m guessing they belonged to the priory originally.
The book bench sits in the triangular shaped market place and is angled to have a perfect view of the Minster. The design was done by local youngsters and depicts places within the town and historic characters associated with King’s Lynn.
Behind this book bench is the impressive Town Hall and Trinity Guild Hall, in which some parts date back to the 15th century. It is actually a complex of several buildings, all fronted by the rather striking chequerboard pattern of flintwork.
The old gaol house sits to the right and was added to the guild hall complex in 1784. These buildings now house the town museum: Stories of Lynn. The vaulted under croft below the guild hall is host to a multimedia exhibit which traces the town’s history through its historic characters. You also get to tour the gaol building which was still in use up till 1937 and see the Treasury which has King’s Lynn’s most impressive historic artefacts on display.
I left the Saturday Market Place via Queen Street and passed the elegant Almshouses on the right called Burkitt Homes. They were built in 1909 in memory of William Burkitt who was the town Mayor in 1863 & 1886.
I turned left down a really cute cobbled street called King Staithes Lane, which lead into King Staithes Square where book bench no.2 on the trail is located alongside Purfleet Quay.
This bench was designed by artist Jess Perrin and the seat part reminds me so much of William Morris’s designs from the arts and crafts era.
On the back of the book bench is a fabulous fairy-tale castle scene bursting out of the pages of a book, featuring the Three Little Pigs and the three bears from Goldilocks and the Three Bears children’s tales.
By the riverside there is an intriguing sculpture that inverts the view looking through the sculpture in tiny diamond shapes. This totally intrigued me, but unfortunately there was no information board or plaque nearby to shed light on the installation. If anyone reading this can fill me in, please get in touch.
Walking across the quay gate you could see how silted up the River Ouse is and it’s pretty clear these gates are no longer in use as the mud reaches a long way up the sides.
On the other side of the quay is Customs House, an attractive building that would have been a merchant’s exchange centre, needed to regulate all trade that took place in the port. King’s Lynn was once one of England’s most important trading towns. Although not situated on the coast, vessels would have sailed up the Ouse to this quayside to trade goods. Customs House was designed by architect Henry Bell in 1683 and became the first example of classical architecture in King’s Lynn.
Also on the Purfleet quayside is a statue of British naval captain, George Vancouver, who was born in King’s Lynn in 1757. He was an excellent surveyor and navigator who charted the Pacific Northwest coastline from San Diego, California all the way up to Anchorage, Alaska.
The Canadian city of Vancouver was named after him, as was the second (much less famous) Vancouver in Washington state. I never knew either of those facts, which just goes to show how educational these sculpture trails can turn out to be.
Returning to Queen Street, (which turns into King Street at this point), I continued walking up to the Tuesday Market Place, calling in to What a Hoot! distillery down a little lane on the left, procuring some rather fabulous looking orange and gin curd to take home.
As I was visiting during the first level of the U.K. national lockdown easing, where food outlets could only serve outside, the market place was buzzing with all the various pubs, restaurants and hotels doing a roaring trade.
Two buildings that grabbed my attention on the square was the old Corn Exchange and the Dukes Head hotel. Built in 1854, the corn exchange building is now a 750-seat live entertainment venue.
On the opposite side of the square, the baby blue frontage of the Dukes Head stands out, with its Georgian architectural details picked out in white.
The third book bench designed by Donna Newman, sits to the right of the hotel and also depicts a fairy-tale scene, front and back.
There are some easily recognisable characters including the three little pigs, the big bad wolf, little Red Riding Hood, Jack with his beanstalk, the little old woman who lived in a shoe and the cow that jumped over the moon.
It’s a super fun design and I’m sure if you visit with children, they’ll leave singing the various rhymes. Either that or you’ll leave trying to recount the bit of the riddle you just can’t quite remember (then resorting to Google later.)
I actually walked to the 7th bench on the official trail next outside the Majestic Cinema, passing the statue of King John on New Conduit Street.
This statue is a relatively new addition to King’s Lynn, commissioned in 2016. King John (of Magna Carta fame) is linked to King’s Lynn in a number of ways. He initially granted the town its charter in 1204, making it one of the most powerful ports in the country as it could rule itself. It was also one of the last places he visited before he died in 1216.
Two of King’s Lynn’s greatest treasures – a cup and a sword are named after him and are on display along with a copy of the charter at the Stories of Lynn Museum.
This bench has a stunning design of an astronaut floating in outer space amongst planets, galaxies and fiery atmosphere, channelling some of the fantastical films that get shown in the Majestic cinema behind.
From the cinema, I walked up Paradise Parade and Market Street to emerge behind the Lynn Museum and right next to the bus station.
I love the design of a seat within a seat that the bus station bench provides. The back reads that this is a ‘seat for friends’ and sports a cushion on the front with the quote: “reading brings us unknown friends.” Books are then stuffed in piles under the seat.
The trail leaflet tells you to:
‘take a moment to sit on the seat, smile, share stories and reconnect with people again.’
It got me reflecting on the number of times I’ve struck up conversations with people I’m sat next to or sharing a seat with, and made me realise how much I’ve missed this throughout the pandemic. We’ve got so used to social distancing and being unable to sit within 2m of someone, that I crave to be able to do such things again; like striking up conversations with the stranger you’re sat next to for hours on a train or plane. I hope we can return to this way of living at some point soon.
It’s just a straight walk along Old Market Street (which turns into Waterloo Street) to reach the station, where the 6th bench of the day claimed a prime position outside the entrance.
This bench is painted in bright bold colours in simple geometric patterns. It’s an eye-catching design from a distance, but up close you realise just how clean and crisp the straight lines are which is no easy task on a curved seat.
I was just about ready for a chill out in a nice green space and that’s exactly what my final King’s Lynn bench brought – the extensive landscaped lawns of The Walks. This Grade II listed 18th century park was refurbished in 2007 and is open 24 hours a day.
Entering the park by St John’s Church, I walked down St John’s Walk and turned right along Red Mount Walk to spot the bench in front of Red Mount Chapel.
This beautiful design by artist Lois Cordelia, depicts an idyllic river landscape rich with wildlife, trees and plants; much like that that runs through The Walks immediately behind the chapel. With the park being accessible at all hours, it means this landscape can be enjoyed from sunrise till sunset, which are the times of day that Lois paints her subjects against here in her signature silhouette style.
I love this unusual octagonal-shaped building raised up on a mound of earth. Its real name is the Chapel of St Mary on the Mount and was built around 1485 as a pit stop for pilgrims en route to the Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham. It was built outside the town’s defensive walls, but within its protective banks.
After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1530, the chapel passed into town council ownership and has been used for all sorts of purposes over the years. These days, the chapel is home to colonies of Natterer’s and brown long eared bats, which can even be seen painted on the back of the book bench situated here.
Continuing along Red Mount Walk, at where it meets Broad Walk, I found the Guannock Gate, one of the last remaining sections of the original town defences. Thankfully it was left to provide an ornamental feature in the park.
Walking through the gate and over the Gaywood river, there is an attractive ornamental garden to the left, complete with band stand and edged by a small rivulet of water. This is the Vancouver Garden, named after that same chap we discussed earlier – Captain George Vancouver and it’s a lovely place to sit and relax.
Retracing my steps back through the gate to continue up Broad Walk, I passed this fab sculpture carved out of one of the original trees planted along the walk in 1753.
It’s great that something was made out of the remaining tree trunk rather than losing the whole tree to whatever fate it befell. I wish you saw this happen more often in places where it’s not possible to replant a tree.
On exiting The Walks at the end of Broad Walk on the way back to the car, it was impossible not to be drawn into the gardens opposite where King’s Lynn war memorial stands within an attractive and well-kept peace garden, in the shadow of Greyfriars Tower.
Greyfriars Tower was a bell tower belonging to a Franciscan Priory dating back to the 1230’s. The tower survived however as it was later used as a handy sea-mark for ships navigating through the shallow waters of The Wash and River Ouse.
It has become a distinctive architectural feature of King’s Lynn and as several people have told me – you couldn’t picture King’s Lynn today without it! I’d say I’d have to agree with that too.
I cannot finish this post without summarising my additional foray up the road to Hunstanton to see 2 more of the book benches on the Explore-a-Book trail.
After figuring out that both benches were in close proximity to each other, with a car park handily situated between the two, that’s where I parked up to continue on the trail.
I first visited the book bench next to The Spinney, which is a triangle of pedestrianised land in the centre of Hunstanton with a small green, tree-covered section in the middle.
The book bench design welcomes you to the ‘libeary’, a place full of books and decorated in pun-tastic popular titles, all relating to bears – such a cool, fun design!
It celebrates the idea that books can take us to places that we may never go to in real life, whether in this case you get engrossed in ‘the Thorn Bears’ escapades, the ‘Encyclopaedia Beartannica’ or ‘Life on Bearth’.
This thought has only been amplified during the pandemic where we’ve experienced travel and general civil liberties being severely restricted. I, like many have used books as a form of escapism during Covid-19 and will continue to do so. For me, nothing beats getting stuck into a really good novel or planning walks from guide books and magazines. I can easily lose hours of my day to this activity.
The second Hunstanton book bench illustrating Hunstanton seaside life can be found in prime position at the top of the town green, in front of the town hall.
This was the location at which local landowner, Henry Le Strange, centred his new seaside resort back in 1845. The expansion of the rail network in 1862 brought visitors in droves from King’s Lynn, making Hunstanton the epitome of a successful British seaside resort.
Looking at the number of people that were around when I visited, Hunstanton has clearly not lost any of its popularity. It was so nice seeing so many people out in the fresh air, sat on the green, enjoying their fish n chips and ice cream after months of lockdown. Yes, those people included me, though the ice cream came first as the chippy queue was very long!
So, there we are… Following the Explore-a-Book book bench trail in King’s Lynn and Hunstanton gave me an absolutely fab day out, which was so needed following lockdown.
Has anyone else been to see them? And if so, which was your favourite bench? Drop me a line in the comments below as I’d love to hear from you…
The book benches are only out on the streets till the 7th June 2021, so if you’re looking for a great idea for a day out in the half term break, why not consider King’s Lynn and Hunstanton?! I highly recommend you download or print off the map and information leaflets from the Stories of Lynn website before you go.
Have a wonderful time bench hopping! See you on the next trail!
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Fan of sculpture trails? Then check out some of the best I’ve followed before…
Hoodwinked Robins in Nottingham / Worcester Stands Tall Giraffes in Worcester
Let’s Go Quackers Ducks in Ironbridge / Burton Swans in Burton-upon-Trent
Walking with the Snowmen in Salford, Middlesborough & London / Elmer’s Big Parade Elephants in Ipswich
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Alex | 28th May 21
The sculpture at Purfleet Quay is called the Archilense. I’ve never noticed it before but found this leaflet online which gives more info.
http://www.visitwestnorfolk.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Art_Cities_Landscape_2014.pdf
I’m hoping we’ll do the book bench trail this half term.
Tilly Jaye Horseman | 29th May 21
Hi Alex, thanks so much for getting in touch and filling me in on the Archilense sculpture. That arts trail from 2014 looked amazing. I’ll amend my copy with the details when I get a chance. Thank you again and I hope you do get to see the book benches before they end! Tilly Jaye 🙂
Lois Cordelia | 28th May 21
Excellent, as ever! A delight to read and look at. I love the way you combine the Bookbench trail with visits to King’s Lynn treasures. So glad you’ve got Anne-Marie’s Bookbench on here, too, Welcome to the Libeary 🙂 x x
Tilly Jaye Horseman | 29th May 21
Thanks Lois! Unfortunately there were no boards next to the sculptures with any info on the artists or sponsors like normal, so I didn’t know who had done some of them. It was defo a great trail! Can’t wait till the otters now! And it’s rams up for me next! 🙂 xx
Katie | 28th May 21
A very informative portrayal and travel guide to Kings Lynn with great photos as usual. Having been before (though not to this event) I saw many familiar landmarks. You were clearly lucky with the weather. It’s great to see a backdrop of blue sky after the never ending drab/wet days of May here in the North West. A great, enjoyable read………Thankyou!
Tilly Jaye Horseman | 28th May 21
We were definitely very lucky with the weather. Here’s hoping we’re in for some nicer weather to come! King’s Lynn is a lovely town, but it would be good to return when more things are open, which they largely are now. Thanks for commenting! xx