Why You Should Visit Wakefield Cathedral

The iconic image of the city of Wakefield is the cathedral’s spire as it is visible from all over the city and from miles around. Yet there are many that are unaware that Wakefield is even a city, let alone that it has a cathedral. It certainly doesn’t rank high amongst the UK’s most popular cathedrals when you consider those like Durham, Wells, Salisbury and York Minster. So why should you visit this little Yorkshire cathedral?

Well, Wakefield Cathedral may be small in size when it comes to cathedral prowess, but it’s perfectly formed with beautiful architectural details and a charming welcoming presence thanks to its most recent renovations over the last decade. I was pleasantly surprised when I entered Wakefield Cathedral and discovered lots of little gems that in my eyes makes Wakefield stand out on the cathedral scene.

A Brief History of Wakefield Cathedral

But before I show you these gems, let me just look a little at the history of Wakefield Cathedral.

Wakefield Cathedral has a long history that goes back as early as the 11^th century. However the church as we recognise it today came into being in the 15^th century (around 1420) when the western tower with its spire was built. To this day, it remains the tallest church structure in Yorkshire.

The cathedral (or church as it was then) has gone through many transitions since that time with lots of rebuilding and extending. It was considered large for an ordinary parish church but still required extensions in the 15^th century when Wakefield’s population grew and space was needed to accommodate the many Chantry priests.

By the mid 1800’s the church was considered to be in poor condition. In 1858, Sir George Gilbert Scott was brought in to report on and make recommendations for repair. A 20 year regeneration programme commenced where the spire was rebuilt, the tower’s external masonry refaced and all roof structures, windows and floors were replaced. These 19^th century alterations gave us the church that became a cathedral in 1888.

However until 1905, the cathedral ended where the Sanctuary currently is. To celebrate the elevation to cathedral status, the eastern end was extended to incorporate St Mark’s Chapel and the new Sanctuary. After this, apart from a few interior decor additions, this is how the cathedral appeared up until its latest renovation work. Even just 10 years ago, the interior walls were blackened with soot, the cathedral had inadequate heating, uneven flooring and the nave still contained all its immovable pews.

The Joy of Wakefield Cathedral in 2020

When you visit Wakefield Cathedral in 2020, you could not see a more different space as the cathedral “strives to realise the vision of a vibrant cathedral that preserves the best of the past but continues to move forward.” (as written in the cathedral guidebook)

The pews have all been removed to form a large open space with level sandstone floors and under-floor heating. It’s nice to know that local stone was used from a quarry near Holmfirth. All the walls and vaults have been cleaned to reveal a light and bright interior and a new lighting and sound system brings the space to life. This has opened up the cathedral to different uses outside of traditional worship with the aim of becoming available and accessible to all in the community. The cathedral is now used for a whole host of cultural and social events including concerts, dinners, dances, lectures and children’s activities.

I visited Wakefield Cathedral during the city’s annual Rhubarb Festival so found lots of activity going on with family fun sessions in arts and crafts as well as the ‘Wakefield Cathedral Rhubarb Quest’. The cathedral cafe in the annexed Treacy Hall also featured a rhubarb filled menu of delicious treats. However, don’t let me digress towards all things rhubarb… Let’s discuss what makes Wakefield Cathedral so special.

The Quirks of the Nave

One of the intriguing quirks of Wakefield Cathedral is that the nave contains a different number of columns on each side. The south aisle has one more column in its arcade than the north. This was probably because it was supporting thinner pointed Gothic arches than the wider rounded Romanesque arches of the north aisle.

Also when looking down the nave to the Chancel arch which separates the nave from the quire, you can see that the arch is not symmetrical. The arch looks like it was built a little too far to the right so that it collides with the nave arcading; whereas to the left there is a considerable gap. It is not known why this is the case and many people probably wouldn’t notice it, but once you have, it certainly becomes a ‘quirk’!

The Tower & the Wakefield Cross

As I’ve already mentioned, the tower of Wakefield Cathedral is rather special as its 75-metre spire makes it the tallest one in Yorkshire. Wakefield was also the first cathedral to have a peal of 14 bells, though weirdly no more than 12 are rung together at any one time. Wakefield has a curious link to Salisbury Cathedral as a former organist from Salisbury composed the melody that the chiming bells play in Wakefield.

The glass doors in the tower are engraved with the Wakefield Cross, an image designed by calligrapher and stonemason Celia Kilner following the design she made for the Saxon Cross which stands just outside the tower doors.

The Saxon Cross at Wakefield Cathedral

It would be lovely if the original Saxon Cross still stood outside Wakefield Cathedral, but the reality is that a 10^th century cross would be in a rough state by now and need protecting from the outdoor elements. Instead, the original cross is at the Wakefield Museum. Strangely enough it was found in 1861 not standing somewhere prominent, but being used as a door step to a barber’s shop in Westgate.

I love the concept behind the production of Saxon Crosses. They were built in a time when stone churches could only be constructed near to stone supplies; so in all other areas where a focal point for prayer was needed, the Saxon Cross would be erected instead. It’s a well thought  theory that wooden churches were not considered permanent enough structures, but a stone cross was.

Celia Kilner’s cross that does now stand here is based upon the design from the original and is now known as the Wakefield Cross. This design is repeated in several places inside the cathedral too, such as the labyrinth.

The Font and Labyrinth

Two things strike you as you walk into the cathedral. Right in front of you stands the font. It has pride of place and is impossible to miss. In so many cathedrals, the font is off to one side and dimly lit because of it.

This unusual octagonal font dates from 1661 and looks immaculate thanks to some serious conservation efforts in 2012. The decoration on it includes the initials of the monarch at the time (Charles II) and those of the church wardens. Around the base of the font there is a beautiful re-dedication message carved into the stone floor celebrating the church becoming a cathedral. It links nicely to the labyrinth which lays just beyond as the red colour in the stone here matches the labyrinth’s colour.

The labyrinth is a new addition to the cathedral during the recent restoration phase. I have to say I’ve always thought of mazes and labyrinths as the same thing. Only now have I learnt that it’s just the mazes that have many path ways within that are designed to trick and confuse you; whereas labyrinths have only one path in to a central point and that same path out again. Labyrinths have long been used in Christian life as a path of prayer.

In Wakefield’s labyrinth, the idea is to walk in to the labyrinth while releasing pent up energies, spend time in the middle reflecting and grounding oneself, then return via the same route and back into ‘life’ feeling calmer and using whatever thoughts you feel you’ve gained from the labyrinth positively. I really do like this idea! There is a board next to the labyrinth to give visitors information about its purpose and how to approach it to get the most out of it.

The Rood Screen

As you look down the nave, the most prominent thing in view is the quire screen. The dark wood of the screen is dated from 1635 and carved by Francis Gunby of Leeds. However the trophy for the most eye-catching part of the cathedral goes to the spectacular shiny gold rood figures that sit atop the wooden screen.

The Holy Rood is the biggest addition to the cathedral in the 20^th century. Designed by Ninian Comper, these figures took up their prominent places in 1950. The word Rood means a cross depicting the crucified Christ; however the term here relates to all the figures along the quire screen, not just the central cross.

The Virgin Mary stands to the left of Christ as you look at the screen and St John the Evangelist is to the right. They are standing on serpents which symbolises Christ overcoming death on Easter Day. On each side is a 6-winged angel which I found to be rather beguiling. I spent a lot of time staring at them. Each end of the cross is engraved with one of the symbols of the four evangelists with that of St John at the bottom. Below this is a carved pelican feeding its young which symbolises Christ giving his blood.

Wakefield’s Hidden Angel

If you look up to the right of the arch above the rood screen, you’ll see the remains of a medieval painting of an angel. The shape looks a lot like the rood angel figures. What a joy that this is still visible hundreds of years later!

The Misericords at Wakefield Cathedral

When you go through into the quire, the real gem of this area is not initially visible. You have to go searching for it! Yes, I’m talking about misericords and the ones here in Wakefield Cathedral are amongst the best, if not the most intriguing and beautiful in the country. I was informed that people travel specially to see the misericords, so I’ll show you some of my favourites here.

If you’re not familiar with what misericords are, then you are about to be educated as they fascinate the hell out of me! In medieval times all the matins, vespers and all other prayer types were conducted while standing up and occasionally kneeling, but what was discouraged was the act of sitting.

At some later date, choir stall seats were constructed much like that at a theatre so they could be upturned. Then on the underside a small shelf was added so that the upturned seat could function as a rest to provide some support while standing for long periods. This was considered an act of mercy or compassion, the Latin for this being ‘misericordia’.

As these shelves were usually out of sight, the carvers were allowed to use them to show off their carving skills with complete freedom of expression. As a result, misericord design tended to feature all sorts of fantastical and mythical creatures as well as some rather rude ones. Those at Wakefield certainly do.

There are several Green Men depicted amongst the misericords, some of which look quite grotesque. There are some lions, pelicans, a wyvern, an ox, a gryphon and a dragon to find amongst the many foliage and Tudor rose designs. You’ll have to get down on your hands and knees to discover them though.

The Saville Owl Bench End

During the 15^th century when the cathedral expanded to accommodate more priests, a local land owner, Sir Thomas Saville donated a new set of choir stalls. 25 of them still exist now with their original misericords. One of the stall ends features a beautiful carving of Saville’s family’s emblem – the owl.

You’ll also find a particularly stunning winged lion carved into another bench end.

Vibrant Quire Ceiling

Look up in the quire and you’ll see the gorgeous blue painted ceiling. It’s achingly simple yet the gold detail looks painstakingly perfect. The blue also massively contrasts with any other colour in the cathedral and really draws the eye in, no matter where you are stood. The red lines connect nicely too with the red in the Sanctuary reredos.

A Particularly Fine Sanctuary

The reredos is the stupidly ornate backdrop to the high altar in the Sanctuary and the one in Wakefield Cathedral is magnificent. I can never work out all the scenes that are depicted on a reredos but you can always rely on the guidebook to fill you in if you are interested. I just stand and marvel at the thing as a whole – at how intricate the carving and painting is. Just stunning!

To each side of the high altar there are the stone seats (sedilia) that are used by the bishops of the new Diocese of Leeds which was created in 2014. This move joined together the dioceses of Bradford, Ripon and Wakefield meaning the three cathedrals now work together to serve the (much larger, single) diocese. On the northern side of the Sanctuary, the seat flanked by the sculptures of St Paulinus and Bishop Waltham How is used by the Bishop of Leeds with the others being used by the area bishops.

The Lady Chapel at Wakefield Cathedral

Lastly a particularly intriguing feature of Wakefield Cathedral is the Lady Chapel. Most cathedrals have one, but what is different about this one is that it is incorporated within the south quire aisle, not a separate entity off to one side or at the east end of the cathedral as you’d expect. You actually walk straight through it as you move round the cathedral. I don’t know how long the Lady Chapel has been there, but it appears to offer a very modern and relaxed way to deliver a service, inviting participation as visitors move around the cathedral. It is used every weekday for the morning liturgy.

I absolutely love the cross-legged Madonna statue holding an infant Christ that sits in the corner of the chapel. Made in 1986 by Ian Judd, it is carved out of Cadeby limestone and aims to make us think about and celebrate the joys of motherhood.

Of course, there are many more little gems in Wakefield Cathedral. Don’t get me started on the subject of stained glass for example otherwise you’ll be here all day. I’ll just say that the cathedral has the largest collection of Charles Kempe stained glass in the one place, so there is a nice unified feel amongst all the windows rather than a mish-mash of different styles. The Lierne vaulting above St Mark’s Chapel is magnificent also.

I hope I have illustrated all the cool reasons why you should visit Wakefield Cathedral.

Wakefield Cathedral Visitor Information

Opening Hours

The cathedral is open to visitors from 9am till 4.30pm Monday – Friday; 9am – 4pm on Saturday and 8.30am – 4.15pm on Sunday. On bank holidays it is usually open 10am – 3pm. Outside of these times, it is open for worship at the advertised times.

Cafe & Shop

There is a cafe and well stocked shop in the Treacy Hall next door. If the misericords fascinate you like they do me, you can buy a booklet about them with photographs of each and every one for £2.00.

Tower Tours

If you are interested in going up the tower, Wakefield Cathedral run tours 2-3 times of year. These are advertised on their website and must be booked in advance.

Tuesday Lunchtime Concerts

If you happen to be in Wakefield on a Tuesday, there is a free lunchtime concert in the cathedral starting at 1pm. It is a lovely way to spend a lunch hour. You can even take your sarnies in with you!

What do you think? Have you been to Wakefield Cathedral before? How do you think it compares to others you’ve visited?

If you hadn’t guessed, I adore visiting cathedrals. It’s one of the main things I insist on doing when I go somewhere new, so please feel free to drop me a line in the comments below as I’m always up for discussing these stupendous buildings!

Further Yorkshire Reading

What’s the annual Rhubarb Festival held in Wakefield in February all about?

Walking the Ingleton Waterfalls Trail

Exploring Brimham Rocks in the Snow: Nidderdale

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